{"id":1132,"date":"2021-11-11T15:18:05","date_gmt":"2021-11-11T13:18:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/viatgeslowcost.wordpress.com\/?p=1132"},"modified":"2022-12-17T13:28:29","modified_gmt":"2022-12-17T11:28:29","slug":"13-carnac-presquile-de-quiberon","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/slowtravelfamily.com\/?p=1132","title":{"rendered":"13. Carnac + Presqu’Ile de Quiberon"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Avui tornar\u00edem a tenir un dia for\u00e7a complet, ja que la nostra intenci\u00f3 era anar a veure els Alineaments de Carnac i a la tarda la Pen\u00ednsula de Quiberon. Aix\u00ed doncs, despr\u00e9s d\u2019esmorzar vam agafar el cotxe posant rumb als alineaments de Carnac<\/span>. En uns 23 minuts (19,10Km) ja est\u00e0vem aparcats a l’aparcament habilitat a la Maison des Megalithes<\/span>, que \u00e9s com el centre d\u2019interpretaci\u00f3 general de tots els alineaments. A m\u00e9s, des de la Maison hi surten els busos que fan el tour tur\u00edstic per veure tots els alineaments, ja que n\u2019hi ha molts i estan for\u00e7a escampats per el territori.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Aix\u00ed que el primer que v\u00e0rem fer va \u00e9sser contractar una sortida en bus pels alineaments de Carnac i que tamb\u00e9 ens portaria a veure els entorns (Trinit\u00e9-sur-mer i el poble de Carnac), fent una ruta circular que ens tornaria per la platja dels pobles de l\u2019entorn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vam reservar a l\u2019empresa \u201cCarnac Visio Tour<\/span>\u201d que ens feia una ruta de 40 minuts amb autob\u00fas descapotable i audioguia en castell\u00e0. Passar\u00edem per els tres alineaments m\u00e9s importants: els de M\u00e9nec, Kermario i Kerlescan. El preu de la ruta \u00e9s de 6,50\u20ac pels adults i 4,00\u20ac pels nens de 3 a 12 anys, i les sortides son esglaonades en els mesos d\u2019estiu, a partir de les 10h del mat\u00ed cada aproximadament 50 minuts.<\/em> Vam decidir fer-la perqu\u00e8 vam veure que no era tant car.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Ruta amb bus<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Quan vam acabar la ruta en autob\u00fas, ja vam saber situar la totalitat dels alineaments i tot el qu\u00e8 voldr\u00edem veure. Llavors, els vam anar a veure pel nostre compte.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Es tracta del conjunt megal\u00edtic d\u2019aquest tipus m\u00e9s gran del m\u00f3n. \u00c9s un dels primers llocs protegits per l\u2019Estat. L\u2019enfoc cient\u00edfic de Prosper M\u00e9rim\u00e9e, inspector general de monuments hist\u00f2rics, porta a l\u2019Estat a realitzar, a partir de 1830, una pol\u00edtica d\u2019adquisici\u00f3 i de conservaci\u00f3 dels meg\u00e0lits. En el segle XXI els empla\u00e7aments son objecte d\u2019activitats de restauraci\u00f3 i condicionament.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Estudis recents han perm\u00e8s associar la hist\u00f2ria d\u2019aquests jaciments amb les diferents evolucions del Neol\u00edtic, en un per\u00edode que marca l\u2019inici de la vida sedent\u00e0ria. Les fileres de menhirs condueixen a un espai considerat sagrat: els recintes. Els d\u00f2lmens compleixen una funci\u00f3 funer\u00e0ria.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Des de la Maison des Megalithes, el primer recinte que es troba son els alineaments du M\u00e9nec<\/span>. \u00c9s el conjunt m\u00e9s important, el qual est\u00e0 format per 1099 menhirs disposats en 11 fileres de 100 metres d\u2019ample per 1,2 kil\u00f2metres de llarg. L\u2019alineament est\u00e0 flanquejat en els seus extrems (est i oest) per cromlecs (cercles de pedres). El cromlec occidental est\u00e0 composat de 70 menhirs i mesura 100m. El cromlec oriental est\u00e0 molt deteriorat, per\u00f2 encara sobreviu. Les pedres situades a l\u2019oest son les m\u00e9s grans, arribant en alguns casos als 4m. La seva grand\u00e0ria va reduint-se al llarg de l\u2019alineament fins assolir nom\u00e9s 90cm en l\u2019extrem oriental. Les fileres no son rectes, sin\u00f3 que descriuen una suau corba cap al nord-est. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Alignements du M\u00e9nec<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Els seg\u00fcents alineaments son els de Kermario<\/span>, a l\u2019est de Le M\u00e9nec. Son els m\u00e9s coneguts i els m\u00e9s freq\u00fcentats. Posseeix 982 menhirs en 10 files que s\u2019estenen a trav\u00e9s de 1,2km. A Kermario es troben les pedres m\u00e9s grans de Carnac: la major t\u00e9 m\u00e9s de 7m d\u2019al\u00e7ada. Els menhirs de Kermario (com els de Le M\u00e9nec), van disminuint de grand\u00e0ria a mesura que s\u2019aproximen al l\u00edmit oriental, on hi ha tres grans roques que formen una l\u00ednia perpendicular amb els alineaments. No lluny de Kermario est\u00e0 el quadril\u00e0ter de Manio<\/span>, un recinte o t\u00famul funerari delimitat per una s\u00e8rie de pedres de 1m d\u2019altura que formen un quadrat. Tamb\u00e9 hi \u00e9s pr\u00f2xim, el Gegant de Manio<\/span>, un menhir en solitari amb una al\u00e7ada de 6m.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Alineaments de Kermario<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Le G\u00e9ant du Manio<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Els alineaments de Kerlescan<\/span>, a l\u2019est de Kermario, consten de 540 pedres, organitzades en 13 fileres de 139m d\u2019ample i 880m de llarg. En el seu extrem occidental hi ha un cromlec de 39 menhirs. \u00c9s l\u2019alineament millor conservat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Encara m\u00e9s a l\u2019est, es troba l\u2019alineament de Le Petit M\u00e9nec<\/span>, recentment restaurat, amb 100 pedres. Es sospita que Le Petit M\u00e9nec \u00e9s en realitat una prolongaci\u00f3 de Kerlescan.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Pedres i m\u00e9s pedres, despr\u00e9s d\u2019abra\u00e7ar el Gegant de Manio, ens va donar forces i ganes de continuar amb la nostra ruta fins a la pen\u00ednsula de Quiberon, que no es troba molt lluny, a uns 11km al sud (uns 16 minuts amb cotxe).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La pen\u00ednsula de Quiberon<\/span> \u00e9s una pen\u00ednsula molt singular: A l\u2019oest es desplega una espectacular costa salvatge, mentre que a l\u2019est es succeeixen boniques platges de sorra fina. Aix\u00ed \u00e9s la pen\u00ednsula de Quiberon al llarg dels seus 14 kil\u00f2metres i amb una varietat de paisatges que convencen nom\u00e9s arribar. \u00c9s un dels destins tur\u00edstics de platja m\u00e9s coneguts en Bretanya i tamb\u00e9 el punt de partida capa a Belle-\u00eele, Houat i Ho\u00ebdic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Amb la mirada cap a l\u2019oest, aquesta magn\u00edfica costa salvatge s\u2019est\u00e9n al llarg de 8km des del castell Turpault fins a la punta del Percho. Penya-segats mossegats per el mar, arcs tallats per les onades… Incl\u00fas amb temps tranquil, l\u2019espectacle de les onades aixafades sobre les roques \u00e9s esglaiador. Ens vam parar a la punta de Beg-er-Goalennec<\/span> on vam gaudir d\u2019unes vistes incre\u00efbles a l\u2019horitz\u00f3 i a la Belle-\u00eele.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Beg-er-Goalennec, amb Belle-\u00eele en Mer al fons<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Beg-er-Goalennec, amb Belle-\u00eele en Mer al fons<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La pen\u00ednsula de Quiberon posseeix uns 30 kil\u00f2metres de costa i \u00e9s famosa per les seves platges. Vam rec\u00f3rrer la seva costa salvatge, per\u00f2 tamb\u00e9 vam anar a veure alguna de les seves platges, com la Plage de Port Blanc<\/span>, amb el seu caracter\u00edstic arc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Plage de Port Blanc<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Plage de Port Blanc, amb l\u2019arc caracter\u00edstic<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

De totes formes, posseeix altres facetes que requereixen una mica m\u00e9s de temps per a \u00e9sser descobertes: al llarg de la ruta de la costa salvatge es succeeixen els jaciments megal\u00edtics i l\u2019interior de la illa guarda en secret l\u2019exist\u00e8ncia de poblets preciosos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A Quiberon, son nombroses les activitats relacionades amb el mar: passejos, pesca en vaixell, vela, carro de vela, kayak, kite-surf,… La pen\u00ednsula \u00e9s un dels millors centres de surf de Bretanya. El sender de la Grande Randonn\u00e9e d\u00f3na la volta a la pen\u00ednsula i existeixen circu\u00efts de bicicleta amb els que devorar tota la pen\u00ednsula.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Recorrent la pen\u00ednsula, vam arribar a la punta de m\u00e9s al sud de la mateixa, en la qual hi ha un far. Es tracta de la Pointe du Conguel<\/span>, amb unes grans vistes i panor\u00e0miques de les illes i de tota la badia.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Pointe du Conguel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Pointe du Conguel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Submergeix-te de nou en l\u2019encant dels pobles bretons d\u2019abans. Els llogarets es troben un xic retirats de la costa, per\u00f2 ofereixen vistes dignes d\u2019una postal: amb els seus carrerons estrets, vorejades de casetes blanques, porticons blaus i hort\u00e8nsies en flor… El temps sembla aturar-se. Tot al contrari succeeix amb les boniques botigues de Quiberon i les seves temptacions actuals.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Els amants del bon menjar no tindran problema amb els nombrosos restaurants de marisc, peix i creperies. Per\u00f2 no t\u2019oblidis de les nostres especialitats: la niniches (un caramel), el salidou (una crema de caramel a la mantega salada), les galetes de Quiberon, el peix fumat i les famoses conserves de sardines.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

El lloc que m\u00e9s ens va impactar fou la zona de la Pointe du Perche<\/span> i la Pointe Beg-An-Aud<\/span>, que estan separades ambdues puntes per uns 1000 metres, i formen un cap roc\u00f3s. Vam aparcar el cotxe a l\u2019aparcament de la Pointe Beg-An-Aud i vam caminar per un circu\u00eft panor\u00e0mic circular que ens portaria a les dues puntes i un altre cop a l\u2019aparcament, despr\u00e9s d\u2019haver recorregut uns 2500 metres (uns 30 minuts a peu aproximadament).<\/p>\n\n\n\n[googlemaps https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m40!1m12!1m3!1d5121.549704894014!2d-3.159688571047523!3d47.52739385117889!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!4m25!3e2!4m4!1s0x481071a73daa65b1%3A0x886fee611d90e108!3m2!1d47.525265!2d-3.1541107999999998!4m4!1s0x481071a81c1a4fbd%3A0x8790eb34312b033c!3m2!1d47.523695599999996!2d-3.1591915999999998!4m4!1s0x48107187f9ed11e3%3A0x2079c455c5f5a348!3m2!1d47.529753!2d-3.1621259!4m4!1s0x481071a657617867%3A0xfe971653c8f3ddec!3m2!1d47.5265881!2d-3.1560208999999997!4m3!3m2!1d47.5252589!2d-3.1541262!5e1!3m2!1sca!2ses!4v1636640619223!5m2!1sca!2ses&w=600&h=450]\n\n\n\n

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Recorregut circular per les Pointes de la Perche i de Beg-An-Aud<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Recorregut circular per les Pointes de la Perche i de Beg-An-Aud<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Finalitzat aquest recorregut circular, el sol comen\u00e7ava a pondre\u2019s, i les vistes des de qualsevol dels dos punts eren magn\u00edfiques. Est\u00e0vem cansats, perqu\u00e8 durant tot el dia hav\u00edem descobert nous paisatges i nous llocs. Era el moment de tornar a l\u2019allotjament.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Us deixem les principals fites del dia marcades en un pl\u00e0nol de google maps on s\u2019observen cadascun dels atractius visitats i el total de kil\u00f2metres recorreguts amb el temps invertit a la carretera (86,80km amb 2h 12min) .<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n[googlemaps https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m65!1m12!1m3!1d115786.82146903337!2d-3.1367864739365183!3d47.57291839426966!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!4m50!3e0!4m4!1s0x4810167db44e2be5%3A0x12f8d4934aab662c!3m2!1d47.6892323!2d-2.9616485999999997!4m4!1s0x48106d5b25b6296d%3A0xbed1a8ad4067d171!3m2!1d47.590953899999995!2d-3.0837518!4m4!1s0x48106d0f12517fe9%3A0x2fe78fe4d8fc3193!3m2!1d47.5928622!2d-3.0813048!4m4!1s0x48106da0dfb52bd1%3A0xe6d2021c9a45d2e3!3m2!1d47.5998954!2d-3.0572475999999997!4m4!1s0x481077e6af862229%3A0xfa7db631915f70f2!3m2!1d47.484113099999995!2d-3.1428643!4m4!1s0x481074612c008b79%3A0x5bcad2e22defa04a!3m2!1d47.4693906!2d-3.0809051999999997!4m4!1s0x481071a762cecb59%3A0x4b638309e315a852!3m2!1d47.5236575!2d-3.1547471999999996!4m4!1s0x481071a81c1a4fbd%3A0x8790eb34312b033c!3m2!1d47.523695599999996!2d-3.1591915999999998!4m4!1s0x48107188ff11661f%3A0xeaecba268ad7860b!3m2!1d47.528889!2d-3.160278!4m3!3m2!1d47.6891946!2d-2.9617069!5e1!3m2!1sca!2ses!4v1636640900746!5m2!1sca!2ses&w=600&h=450]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Avui tornar\u00edem a tenir un dia for\u00e7a complet, ja que la nostra intenci\u00f3 era anar a veure els Alineaments de Carnac i a la tarda la Pen\u00ednsula de Quiberon. Aix\u00ed doncs, despr\u00e9s d\u2019esmorzar vam agafar el cotxe posant rumb als alineaments de Carnac. En uns 23 minuts (19,10Km) ja est\u00e0vem aparcats a l’aparcament habilitat a […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[226],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1132","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-bretanya-francesa"],"yoast_head":"\n13. 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