{"id":2623,"date":"2021-11-17T17:35:36","date_gmt":"2021-11-17T15:35:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/viatgeslowcost.wordpress.com\/?p=2623"},"modified":"2022-12-17T14:21:12","modified_gmt":"2022-12-17T12:21:12","slug":"12-cordes-sur-ciel","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/slowtravelfamily.com\/?p=2623","title":{"rendered":"12. Cordes-sur-Ciel"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Cordes-sur-Ciel era el poble que ten\u00edem m\u00e9s a prop de l\u2019apartament de la regi\u00f3 d\u2019Albi. El ten\u00edem a 14,2Km (a uns 19min amb cotxe) per carreteres locals. \u00c9s dels pobles que m\u00e9s ens va fascinar, potser el que m\u00e9s. Primer, per la seva visi\u00f3 de conjunt: la d\u2019una ciutat tractant d\u2019assolir el cel. Segon perqu\u00e8 la ciutat \u00e9s un llibre d\u2019art i de hist\u00f2ria animada durant 800 anys per la mem\u00f2ria de les pedres i dels homes que la edificaren. I per \u00faltim, perqu\u00e8 \u00e9s un lloc intemporal marcat per una m\u00e0gia secular l\u2019origen de la qual neix en l\u2019edat mitjana. La ciutat es va fundar el 4 de novembre de 1222. Considerada com una de les primeres bastides de la regi\u00f3 (ciutats amb fortificacions), Cordes pass\u00e0 per un creixement excepcional gr\u00e0cies a la ind\u00fastria del teixit i del cuir. Durant aquella edat d\u2019or (de 1280 a 1350), els comerciants rics i algunes fam\u00edlies nobles varen construir magn\u00edfics palaus g\u00f2tics amb fa\u00e7anes decorades sorprenents. Durant la segona guerra mundial un grup d\u2019artistes reunits al voltant del pintor Yves Brayer despertaren la ciutat oblidada i varen permetre que es desenvolup\u00e9s r\u00e0pidament. Tota aquella her\u00e8ncia fa de la ciutat de Cordes una de les ciutats medievals m\u00e9s significatives de Fran\u00e7a i una de les zones m\u00e9s importants del patrimoni europeu. Avui, hi ha uns trenta artistes i artesans d\u2019art que hi viuen tot l\u2019any.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Quan arribes a visitar Cordes-sur-Ciel, la millor vista panor\u00e0mica d\u2019aquest poble emmurallat la tens des del tur\u00f3 proper \u201cPied Haut\u201d. Aquest \u00e9s el lloc d\u2019on s\u2019han fet les fotos que il\u00b7lustren els cartells i fulletons tur\u00edstics de la localitat, en la que el poble emmurallat s\u2019eleva sobre un mar de n\u00favols provocat per la boira. Veient aquesta panor\u00e0mica s\u2019ent\u00e9n el seu nom de Cordes \u201csobre el cel\u201d, el qual li va posar una poetessa no fa molt (al 1985), i que ha estat assumit oficialment. Des d\u2019all\u00e0 tamb\u00e9 podr\u00e0s veure els bonics i molt verds paisatges de camp que rodegen a Cordes-sur-Ciel.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Un cop aparques el cotxe en la part baixa del poble (hi ha zona blava en la major part del mateix), per a visitar el recinte fortificat haur\u00e0s de pujar per el molt empinat carrer de la Barbacana. En aquesta dura pujada ja podr\u00e0s anar descobrint encantadors racons. Per\u00f2 al traspassar la porta de la primera muralla \u00e9s quan realment et sentir\u00e0s traslladat a l\u2019edat mitjana, sensaci\u00f3 que augmenta quan superes la segona porta i accedeixes a l\u2019interior del recinte emmurallat de Cordes-sur-Ciel, el qual no \u00e9s gaire gran.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Porta de l\u2019Horloge<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Porta de les muralles<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

De forma allargada, les seves boniques cases entramades i les mansions amb fa\u00e7anes g\u00f2tiques es disposen al llarg de dos carrers paral\u00b7lels. Com a eix central, una pla\u00e7a enjardinada, una altra amb el recinte de columnates de l\u2019antic mercat del segle XV, i una tercera pla\u00e7a que s\u2019obre davant l\u2019esgl\u00e9sia de San Miguel, constru\u00efda entre els segles XIII i XV.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Obertura de la pla\u00e7a davant l\u2019esgl\u00e9sia de Sant Miquel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Obertura de la pla\u00e7a davant l\u2019esgl\u00e9sia de Sant Miquel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Esgl\u00e9sia de Sant Miquel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

En el teu passeig per Cordes-sur-Ciel comprovar\u00e0s el protagonisme que tenen les botigues d\u2019artistes i artesans, amb nombroses galeries i establiments dels m\u00e9s diversos oficis. I per suposat, a destacar la gran successi\u00f3 de mansions en les fa\u00e7anes es poden veure els diversos estils g\u00f2tics, des del m\u00e9s primitiu del segle XIII fins el flam\u00edger del segle XV.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

\u00c9s dif\u00edcil dir qu\u00e8 veure en Cordes-sur-Ciel perqu\u00e8 cal veure-ho tot. Quasi cada un de les llambordes dels seus carrers, de les pedres dels seus edificis, de les portes i finestres de les seves cases tenen una hist\u00f2ria que explicar. A l\u2019estiu, l\u2019oficina de turisme de Cordes-sur-Ciel organitza tours guiats d\u2019una hora a les 12h i a les 17h, tamb\u00e9 en espanyol, per 4 euros. Recomanem aquesta visita perqu\u00e8 sembla interessant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Les portes de la muralla <\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

El primer que veur\u00e0s a Cordes-sur-Ciel est\u00e0 clar: les seves muralles. Si vols entrar en el seu casc hist\u00f2ric, les haur\u00e0s de veure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Creuant les portes de les muralles<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Creuant les portes de les muralles<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Les casones g\u00f2tiques i les seves escultures<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Els rics comerciants de Cordes-sur-Ciel es van obstinar a demostrar aquesta riquesa amb les seves enormes casones. La maison du Grand Fauconnier \u2013actual Museu d\u2019Art Modern i Contemporani-, la maison du Grand \u00c9cuyer i la maison du Grand Veneur, son les m\u00e9s boniques d\u2019aquestes casones dels segles XIII i XIV. Agafen el nom de la rica decoraci\u00f3, amb est\u00e0tues i relleus, de les seves fa\u00e7anes: la del \u201cgran falconer\u201d tenia falcons, la del \u201cgran escuder\u201d tenia un cavall, i la del \u201cgran ca\u00e7ador\u201d escenes de ca\u00e7a.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Arquitectura g\u00f2tica<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Arquitectura g\u00f2tica<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Les escenes de ca\u00e7a son un reflex d\u2019aquest desig dels comerciants de no ser menys que la noblesa. La ca\u00e7a era una activitat m\u00e9s pr\u00f2pia de l\u2019aristocr\u00e0cia que dels mercaders, per molt rics que fossin. L\u2019amo de la casa mostrava que podia ca\u00e7ar com un noble si volia. Una cosa \u00e9s voler ser noble i l\u2019altra \u00e9s deixar d\u2019\u00e9sser ric.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La Pla\u00e7a del Mercat i el seu pou<\/span> <\/p>\n\n\n\n

La ra\u00f3 de ser de Cordes-sur-Ciel era la seva pla\u00e7a central, la pla\u00e7a del Mercat. Per\u00f2, a diferencia de la majoria de places del mercat medievals, la de Cordes-sur-Ciel estava coberta (encara que a Fran\u00e7a n\u2019hem vist unes quantes m\u00e9s aix\u00ed). Protegida per un gran sostre que s\u2019aixecava sobre enormes columnes de fusta. I avui encara s\u2019aixeca. Si les cases encara han resistit, perqu\u00e8 tindria que sorprendre\u2019ns que l\u2019estructura de la pla\u00e7a del mercat tamb\u00e9? Avui en dia es pot prendre un caf\u00e8 sota semblant protecci\u00f3.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La Pla\u00e7a del Mercat<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
La Pla\u00e7a del Mercat<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Sota aquest sostre es troba un pou d\u2019uns 113 metres de profunditat. Est\u00e0 excavat en la roca i es solia usar com a \u201cinstrument dissuasiu\u201d, o aix\u00f2 diu la tradici\u00f3. Al seu costat, est\u00e0 la creu que en el segle XIV feu aixecar el Papa en mem\u00f2ria dels tres inquisidors tirats al pou en 1234 per els c\u00e0tars.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Segons la llegenda, Cordes es va construir sobre el llom d\u2019un drag\u00f3 adormit. Aquests 113 metres de pou serien la marca de la llan\u00e7a de Sant Miquel colpejant a la b\u00e8stia llegend\u00e0ria en el cor.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Altres llocs que visitar en Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/span><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les tres casones que hem mencionat abans no son les \u00faniques del poble que mereixen una parada. N\u2019hi ha d\u2019altres. Una d\u2019elles, la maison Gaugiran, \u00e9s avui l\u2019oficina de turisme de Cordes-sur-Ciel. Altres son tallers o botigues d\u2019artistes i artesans i tamb\u00e9 n\u2019hi ha que s\u2019han convertit en museus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Cordes-sur-Ciel<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

En les seves fa\u00e7anes veur\u00e0s l\u2019evoluci\u00f3 del g\u00f2tic al llarg dels anys: finestrals, decoraci\u00f3, forma, al\u00e7ada… un veritable passeig per un museu de l\u2019arquitectura de l\u2019Edat Mitjana. Tot entre carrers laber\u00edntics, empedrats, i empinats. Des del punt m\u00e9s baix al punt m\u00e9s alt del poble, hi ha un desnivell de 160 metres. Com a prova, l\u2019escala del Pater Noster, amb els seus cinquanta-dos graons \u2013el nombre de paraules del parenostre- que els peregrins pujaven de genolls.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Per suposat, tal com hem dit anteriorment, tampoc pot faltar l\u2019esgl\u00e9sia del poble, que est\u00e0 dedicada a Sant Miquel. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Adjuntem el material gr\u00e0fic<\/span> que ens donaren a l\u2019oficina de turisme, i que ens va fer servei per realitzar la nostra ruta al poble de Cordes-sur-Ciel:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
https:\/\/www.cordessurciel.fr\/uploads\/2020\/05\/PLAN2019-version-definitive_compressed-1.pdf<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Cordes-sur-Ciel era el poble que ten\u00edem m\u00e9s a prop de l\u2019apartament de la regi\u00f3 d\u2019Albi. El ten\u00edem a 14,2Km (a uns 19min amb cotxe) per carreteres locals. \u00c9s dels pobles que m\u00e9s ens va fascinar, potser el que m\u00e9s. Primer, per la seva visi\u00f3 de conjunt: la d\u2019una ciutat tractant d\u2019assolir el cel. Segon perqu\u00e8 […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[228],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2623","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-occitania"],"yoast_head":"\n12. 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Cordes-sur-Ciel - Viatges en fam\u00edlia "slow travel"","robots":{"index":"index","follow":"follow","max-snippet":"max-snippet:-1","max-image-preview":"max-image-preview:large","max-video-preview":"max-video-preview:-1"},"canonical":"https:\/\/slowtravelfamily.com\/?p=2623","og_locale":"ca_ES","og_type":"article","og_title":"12. Cordes-sur-Ciel - Viatges en fam\u00edlia "slow travel"","og_description":"Cordes-sur-Ciel era el poble que ten\u00edem m\u00e9s a prop de l\u2019apartament de la regi\u00f3 d\u2019Albi. El ten\u00edem a 14,2Km (a uns 19min amb cotxe) per carreteres locals. \u00c9s dels pobles que m\u00e9s ens va fascinar, potser el que m\u00e9s. Primer, per la seva visi\u00f3 de conjunt: la d\u2019una ciutat tractant d\u2019assolir el cel. 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