{"id":3987,"date":"2021-11-23T16:39:14","date_gmt":"2021-11-23T14:39:14","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/viatgeslowcost.wordpress.com\/?p=3987"},"modified":"2022-12-18T11:37:29","modified_gmt":"2022-12-18T09:37:29","slug":"10-de-finisterre-a-muxia","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/slowtravelfamily.com\/?p=3987","title":{"rendered":"10. De Finisterre a Mux\u00eda"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Avui \u00e9s un dia molt intens, i sobretot, molt tur\u00edstic. Hav\u00edem agafat el ritme a la durada i llargada de les jornades a Gal\u00edcia i en vol\u00edem m\u00e9s. Doncs la intenci\u00f3 del dia d\u2019avui era comen\u00e7ar visitant el Cap de Fisterra i acabar per visitar Mux\u00eda, a 30km de l\u2019anterior. La ruta estava molt ben acotada i era q\u00fcesti\u00f3 de comen\u00e7ar a descobrir-la. Aix\u00ed doncs, v\u00e0rem anar per veure la fi del m\u00f3n, i vaja si el vam veure. No vam veure res, tot era boira, quina desil\u00b7lusi\u00f3. Mira que hi vam anar d\u2019hora al mat\u00ed, per\u00f2 no, estava tot el cap cobert de boira i no es veia res. Vam decidir que hi tornar\u00edem al finalitzar la jornada. No hi ha res com tenir l\u2019allotjament a 17km d\u2019all\u00e0.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Far de Fisterra al cabo de Fisterra<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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V\u00e0rem prosseguir amb els plans del dia, peti qui peti, i el proper pas era visitar el poble de Fisterra. No era com el poble de Muros, quina difer\u00e8ncia. En canvi, Fisterra<\/span> \u00e9s m\u00e9s tur\u00edstic. A nosaltres ens interessava per 2 o 3 atraccions. V\u00e0rem aparcar el cotxe al l\u00edmit del casc urb\u00e0, a la Igrexa de Santa Maria das Areas<\/span>, perqu\u00e8 era un lloc estrat\u00e8gic per anar a peu a tot arreu, i perqu\u00e8 vol\u00edem veure la imatge del Sant Crist de Finisterre, la qual \u00e9s una talla medieval. Doncs ens vam quedar amb un pam de nas, perqu\u00e8 l\u2019esgl\u00e9sia era tancada. Vam decidir anar a donar un tomb fins al Castillo de San Carlos<\/span>, on hi havia un museu, el Museo do Mar, el qual era molt did\u00e0ctic perqu\u00e8 t\u2019explicaven els secrets de la pesca a la Costa da Morte. Ens varen ensenyar com pescaven els pops. Ens va costar 2\u20ac per cap, em sembla. Despr\u00e9s del museu v\u00e0rem anar caminant fins al port de Fisterra, per veure la Llotja<\/span>, la qual \u00e9s un edifici molt modern que ha guanyat algun premi. Per variar, tamb\u00e9 estava tancada.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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La Llotja de Fisterra<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

V\u00e0rem decidir d\u2019acabar de caminar per alguns carrers del casc hist\u00f2ric i quan ens vam cansar, vam agafar el cotxe i vam marxar a les afores per veure una platja, la Praia do Rostro<\/span>, totalment verge, de 2km de longitud i amb un sistema dunar molt ben conservat. El mar i el seu onatge estaven espectaculars amb la platja, seguien un ritme que se\u2019t posava a dins el cos i no podies moure\u2019t ni marxar d\u2019all\u00e0. La Praia do Rostro \u00e9s una altra meravella salvatge de la Costa da Morte. Una oda al mar, al salnitre i a l\u2019aire pur, un complet luxe per els sentits. Oberta a l\u2019oce\u00e0 Atl\u00e0ntic, el constant vent que en ella colpeja durant bona part de l\u2019any, ha format un extens sistema dunar, amb al\u00e7ades importants i plenes de vegetaci\u00f3. V\u00e0rem gaudir del passeig per la sorra, i v\u00e0rem escoltar el soroll d\u2019aquest mar que en pocs llocs m\u00e9s podrem tornar a escoltar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Praia do Rostro<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Era com recarregar les piles. V\u00e0rem continuar el nostre cam\u00ed, aquest cop cap a una altra platja, la Praia de Nemi\u00f1a<\/span>, de m\u00e9s dif\u00edcil acc\u00e9s (v\u00e0rem haver d\u2019anar a voltar quasi fins al nostre allotjament, ja ho veureu en el mapa final adjunt del google maps). Hi vam anar perqu\u00e8 era hora de dinar i sab\u00edem que hi havia un restaurant, on pr\u00e8viament vam reservar, per si de cas (es deia Restaurante Saburil, no gran cosa, ens van fer esperar molt\u00edssim). La Praia de Nemi\u00f1a no era tant espectacular com la del Rostro, per\u00f2 tamb\u00e9 ens va agradar. El mar aqu\u00ed, estava m\u00e9s calmat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Praia de Nemi\u00f1a<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ja ten\u00edem ganes d\u2019arribar en el pr\u00f2xim lloc, un far, el Faro de Touri\u00f1\u00e1n<\/span>, que segons els c\u00e0lculs que vam fer, \u00e9s el punt m\u00e9s a l\u2019occident de Gal\u00edcia, i no el cabo Fisterra. Per arribar fins al Faro de Touri\u00f1\u00e1n vam haver de passar quasi una odissea, entre l\u2019estretor de les carreteres i els cops que et trobes a dins d\u2019un Lugar o Barri sense saber com sortir… El google maps ens va guiar i quasi no ho expliquem. El far est\u00e0 a uns 4km del poblet de Touri\u00f1\u00e1n, i s\u2019hi arriba per una carretera simple molt estreta. A part d\u2019aix\u00f2, en el far, vam al\u00b7lucinar. L\u2019entorn era molt maco, ja que est\u00e0 ubicat a la punta d\u2019una petita pen\u00ednsula, com un enorme sortint en la costa de m\u00e9s de 2 kil\u00f2metres, i el mar xoca descaradament contra els penya-segats. El far original es va construir al 1.898, per a guiar les embarcacions durant la travessia per aquestes perilloses aig\u00fces. Hi ha un corriol que voreja tota la pen\u00ednsula del far i et porta molt a prop dels penya-segats. El nou far es va construir el 1.981, el qual \u00e9s una torre de formig\u00f3 de 11 metres d\u2019al\u00e7ada amb una llum que arriba a les 23 milles. Ens vam assentar una bona estona en alguna roca o en la gespa que voreja el far, per observar tot l\u2019immens paisatge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Far de Touri\u00f1\u00e1n<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Per aqu\u00ed hi passa el fam\u00f3s \u201cO Cami\u00f1o dos Faros<\/span>\u201d, el qual \u00e9s un recorregut d\u2019uns 200 kil\u00f2metres per la vora del mar, que uneix Malpica i Finisterre, convenientment senyalitzat. La nostra intenci\u00f3 era fer-ne algun tram.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

No hagu\u00e9ssim marxat mai de Touri\u00f1\u00e1n, per\u00f2 era hora de continuar la ruta, ara ja directament cap al poble de Mux\u00eda. Lo m\u00e9s espectacular del poble de Mux\u00eda, estava als seus afores. El poble en si, no t\u00e9 res de l\u2019altre m\u00f3n. En el seu casc hist\u00f2ric encara es veuen alguns carrers i cases tradicionals. Per\u00f2 en els afores, \u00e9s una altra cosa. Diguem-ne que lo que hi ha al voltant del far de Mux\u00eda \u00e9s com fet per art de m\u00e0gia. Hi ha una bona esplanada per aparcar, i des de l\u2019aparcament, a davant tens una mola immensa que \u00e9s el Santuari da Virxen da Barca<\/span>. La hist\u00f2ria del Santuari i de les pedres del seu entorn va lligada a la hist\u00f2ria de la vil\u00b7la. El Santuari \u00e9s objecte de culte m\u00e0gic-religi\u00f3s al llarg dels segles, i de veneraci\u00f3 per els milers de peregrins que recorren el cam\u00ed Xacobeo de Santiago a Mux\u00eda-Fisterra. L\u2019arribada al Santuari es converteix en l\u2019esperada recompensa a l\u2019esfor\u00e7 realitzat per arribar al final del cam\u00ed, el lloc on la Verge va arribar en una barca de pedra per donar-li \u00e0nims a l\u2019Ap\u00f2stol Santiago (aix\u00f2 \u00e9s lo qu\u00e8 es diu). La romeria de la Barca est\u00e0 reconeguda com d\u2019inter\u00e8s tur\u00edstic nacional, rebent milers de visitants en el mes de Setembre de cada any.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Santuari da Virxen da Barca<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

El lloc \u00e9s espectacular. Ho \u00e9s el propi recinte religi\u00f3s i l\u2019atri que s\u2019est\u00e9n m\u00e9s all\u00e0 del muret, cap on estan les pedres m\u00e0giques que diuen tenir propietats curatives i endevinat\u00f2ries (la Pedra de Abalar, la Pedra de Os Cadr\u00eds,…), per la forma que tenen i les llegendes que expliquen. El temple fou reconstru\u00eft v\u00e0ries vegades. La \u00faltima, al 2.015. Des d\u2019aqu\u00ed, un caminet empedrat condueix a dalt del Monte Corpi\u00f1o (68 metres) des del que es t\u00e9 una bona panor\u00e0mica del nucli urb\u00e0 i la posta de sol, amb unes excel\u00b7lents vistes. Tamb\u00e9, a prop del Santuari, hi ha el Miradoiro Jes\u00fas Quintanal<\/span>, el qual \u00e9s una escultura feta per 2 immensos blocs de pedra, que es diu \u201cla herida\u201d, tractant-se de la ferida i el mal que va fer l\u2019enfonsament del vaixell Prestige.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Miradoiro Jes\u00fas Quintanal<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La jornada estava arribant al seu final, i \u00e9s llavors quan ens v\u00e0rem adonar que el dia tenia d\u2019acabar amb una exposici\u00f3 m\u00e9s de m\u00e0gia, per tant, \u00e9s llavors quan v\u00e0rem anar al Cabo de Fisterra<\/span>. V\u00e0rem rec\u00f3rrer els 33km que separen Mux\u00eda del cap de Fisterra, i ens vam presentar a la Praza de Stephen Hawking amb el cotxe per tal d\u2019aparcar-lo (sort que en sortia algun, sin\u00f3 l\u2019hagu\u00e9ssim hagut de deixar v\u00e9s a saber on). Des de la Praza de Stephen Hawking (on hi ha les botigues de souvenirs) fins al far, hi ha uns 250m, que ens van saber a gl\u00f2ria, com es diu. El sol brillava radiant, per enlloc hi havia rastre de les boires del mat\u00ed. Era el millor moment del dia per plantar-se al cap, o sigui que ho v\u00e0rem encertar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Far del cap de Fisterra<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
El cap de Fisterra \u00e9s un promontori de granit d\u2019una al\u00e7ada de 600 metres constitu\u00eft per una pen\u00ednsula que penetra uns 3 kil\u00f2metres cap el mar. Els romans pensaven que aquest era el punt m\u00e9s occidental de la terra, i per tant, el m\u00f3n s\u2019acabava aqu\u00ed. El cap de Fisterra amaga el veritable secret de la Costa da Morte: paisatges agrestes i platges impressionants, i la gran atracci\u00f3 de tots els temps, la posta de sol sobre la immensitat de l\u2019oce\u00e0, el mar de la fi del m\u00f3n. Sigui per curiositat o per viure una aventura, el Cap de Fisterra fou un imant des de la m\u00e9s remota antiguitat, atraient a viatgers de llunyans pa\u00efsos i tamb\u00e9, amb pitjor fortuna, a tants vaixells que naufragaren en les seves aig\u00fces. Avui, amb el seu potent far, segueix exercint un atractiu especial sobre els peregrins del Camino de Santiago, que no donen per finalitzat el seu viatge fins arribar aqu\u00ed. Per alguna cosa ser\u00e0. El far est\u00e0 constru\u00eft a 1.853, a 138 metres sobre el nivell del mar<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Cap de Fisterra<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Vam buscar el nostre lloc un cop passats el far i l\u2019edifici de la \u201cvaca\u201d de Fisterra, all\u00e0 on hi ha la creu i les botes de ferro (botes de peregr\u00ed en refer\u00e8ncia als que acaben el cam\u00ed de Santiago aqu\u00ed). El sol estava radiant i el lloc tamb\u00e9 irradiava molta intensitat emocional. Hi havia molt\u00edssima gent que feia el mateix i possiblement molts esperaven l\u2019hora del capvespre. Nosaltres ens ho v\u00e0rem proposar i v\u00e0rem quedar per un altre dia. Est\u00e0vem cansats i era l\u2019hora d\u2019anar a l\u2019allotjament despr\u00e9s d\u2019un dia for\u00e7a concorregut. V\u00e0rem entrar a les botigues de souvenirs a comprar alguna coseta i ens en v\u00e0rem anar cap a Cee. Abans, per\u00f2, de sortir del municipi de Fisterra, hi ha un mirador des de la carretera local AC-445, anomenat \u201cMiradoiro de Fisterra<\/span>\u201d. S\u2019entra a ell en direcci\u00f3 contraria al poble. Va \u00e9sser la \u00faltima aturada del dia, per acomiadar-nos del poble i de la zona.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Miradoiro de Fisterra<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Us deixem les principals fites del dia marcades en un pl\u00e0nol de google maps<\/span> on s\u2019observen cadascun dels atractius visitats, els accessos als mateixos, i el total de kil\u00f2metres recorreguts amb el temps invertit a la carretera (119km amb 2h 51min).<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n[googlemaps https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m60!1m12!1m3!1d182.38794366640818!2d-9.193109467503758!3d42.99497354984302!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!4m45!3e0!4m4!1s0xd2932d4c252c0cf%3A0x92f6923857f40c99!3m2!1d42.994987099999996!2d-9.1928337!4m4!1s0xd292c046b3d4733%3A0x1c6884b7e87f2463!3m2!1d42.882383499999996!2d-9.271838599999999!4m4!1s0xd292c3b91f3fcc3%3A0x613a72cafe346cd3!3m2!1d42.9017324!2d-9.2635677!4m4!1s0xd29321acf1061a7%3A0x4a30bf084108ea51!3m2!1d42.965708899999996!2d-9.266432!4m4!1s0xd2933c4a0724bc9%3A0xeeb79d8cbc45a850!3m2!1d43.0082895!2d-9.261581999999999!4m4!1s0xd2936939b5bdedb%3A0x5be5a5cc3f9b5843!3m2!1d43.053250899999995!2d-9.2981531!4m4!1s0xd294a9d88700001%3A0x49c129e0a43ef50c!3m2!1d43.1120099!2d-9.219401699999999!4m4!1s0xd292c04955e4ca7%3A0xc9db728736ed11e2!3m2!1d42.8847185!2d-9.2717086!4m3!3m2!1d42.9950307!2d-9.1929365!5e0!3m2!1sca!2ses!4v1637681912386!5m2!1sca!2ses&w=600&h=450]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Avui \u00e9s un dia molt intens, i sobretot, molt tur\u00edstic. Hav\u00edem agafat el ritme a la durada i llargada de les jornades a Gal\u00edcia i en vol\u00edem m\u00e9s. Doncs la intenci\u00f3 del dia d\u2019avui era comen\u00e7ar visitant el Cap de Fisterra i acabar per visitar Mux\u00eda, a 30km de l\u2019anterior. La ruta estava molt ben […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[230],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3987","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-galicia"],"yoast_head":"\n10. 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