{"id":8568,"date":"2022-04-21T18:29:44","date_gmt":"2022-04-21T16:29:44","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/viatgeslowtravel.wordpress.com\/?p=8568"},"modified":"2022-12-17T13:04:11","modified_gmt":"2022-12-17T11:04:11","slug":"8-costa-adriatica-ulcinj-stari-bar-sveti-stefan","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/slowtravelfamily.com\/?p=8568","title":{"rendered":"8. COSTA ADRI\u00c0TICA: ULCINJ + STARI BAR + SVETI STEFAN"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
Avui \u00e9s el primer dia que passarem a la magn\u00edfica Costa Adri\u00e0tica de Montenegro. \u00c9s un dels seus reclams tur\u00edstics m\u00e9s importants. Pel mat\u00ed visitarem els racons de la ciutat vella d\u2019Ulcinj (Stari Grad). Seguirem amb la nostra road-trip en la direcci\u00f3 oest per la costa adri\u00e0tica fent uns 27 kil\u00f2metres per arribar a una de les meravelles de la costa, la ciutat vella de Bar (Stari Bar). I per acabar i finalitzar el dia, ens despla\u00e7arem uns 35 kil\u00f2metres m\u00e9s a l\u2019oest per anar a trobar una de les joies de la corona de Montenegro: la pen\u00ednsula de Sveti Stefan, que \u00e9s on als voltants, hi tenim el nostre allotjament.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Un cop hem esmorzat ens posarem a rec\u00f3rrer l\u2019Ulcinj Stari Grad<\/span>, la ciutat vella d\u2019Ulcinj. Com hem dit anteriorment, amb m\u00e9s de 2000 anys d\u2019exist\u00e8ncia, \u00e9s una de les m\u00e9s antigues ciutats de l\u2019Adri\u00e0tic.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Est\u00e0 situada en una petita pen\u00ednsula emmurallada juntament amb la ciutat moderna. Les parts de m\u00e9s antiguitat de la muralla son de l\u2019\u00e8poca iliria.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Parts m\u00e9s antigues de la muralla del casc hist\u00f2ric d\u2019Ulcinj<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Dins d\u2019aquesta ciutadella es poden veure alguns dels monuments m\u00e9s importants d\u2019Ulcinj, com la Torre dels Balsic<\/span>, el Palau i la Cort<\/span>, l\u2019esgl\u00e9sia-mesquita on est\u00e0 el Museu de la Ciutat<\/span> i el Mercat d\u2019Esclaus<\/span>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Explica la llegenda que el mateix Miguel de Cervantes fou un d\u2019aquests esclaus i que no hauria estat empresonat a Argel, sin\u00f3 a Ulcinj. Segons aquesta hist\u00f2ria, el nom de Dulcinea vindria de Citt\u00e0 d\u2019Ulcino.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Esgl\u00e9sia-Mesquita, part del Museu de la Ciutat d\u2019Ulcinj<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Amb una majoria de poblaci\u00f3 albanesa (61%), aquesta ciutat constitueix un mosaic de cultures i religions i un exemple de conviv\u00e8ncia poc com\u00fa en els Balcans. El seu casc hist\u00f2ric ha protagonitzat un sense fi d\u2019hist\u00f2ries de pirates (en el segle XVII la ciutat era un mercat molt pr\u00f2sper d\u2019esclaus capturats per pirates) i avui en dia s\u2019erigeix en una veritable joia arquitect\u00f2nica gr\u00e0cies a la seva ciutadella i els seus murs il\u00edrics, de m\u00e9s de 2.500 anys.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Passejar pels seus carrers empedrats, prendre\u2019s una rakjia al capvespre amb unes vistes espectaculars des de qualsevol restaurant del casc hist\u00f2ric, visitar les nombroses mesquites i edificis d\u2019estil otom\u00e0 o prendre\u2019s un bany en alguna de les platges de la ciutat, son activitats obligades a Ulcinj.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A fora del casc antic de la ciutat hi ha altres atraccions que tamb\u00e9 son importants, com la illa Ada Bojana, la qual est\u00e0 formada a partir del delta del riu Bojana, que separa Montenegro d\u2019Alb\u00e0nia. \u00c9s un dest\u00ed molt tur\u00edstic per la seva llarga platja de sorra i tamb\u00e9 per tenir una de les poques platges naturistes del pa\u00eds. La desembocadura del Bojana \u00e9s, a m\u00e9s, un lloc \u00fanic pels amants de la naturalesa, ja que en aquesta zona hi viuen un gran nombre d\u2019esp\u00e8cies diferents de plantes i animals.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Ada Bojana<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
Una altra atracci\u00f3 \u00e9s el poble de Shas<\/span> o Svac<\/span>. Explica la llegenda que aquest antic poble, ubicat en un tur\u00f3 prop del Llac Sas, tenia tantes esgl\u00e9sies com dies t\u00e9 l\u2019any. El cert \u00e9s que, segons les restes trobades, no devia haver-hi m\u00e9s de deu. D\u2019elles destaquen l\u2019Esgl\u00e9sia de Sant Joan i la de Santa Maria, ambdues en ru\u00efnes. El llac proper \u00e9s lloc de descans de nombroses aus migrat\u00f2ries, com cigonyes, garses i cormorans.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Ru\u00efnes en el poble de Shas<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
La Badia Valdanos<\/span>, a uns 5 kil\u00f2metres d\u2019Ulcinj, \u00e9s una tranquil\u00b7la badia envoltada d\u2019oliveres en la que es troba una de les platges m\u00e9s famoses de la regi\u00f3. S\u2019estima que hi ha unes 18.000 oliveres, moltes de les quals tenen varis centenars d\u2019anys d\u2019edat. Per aix\u00f2, aquesta zona est\u00e0 especialment protegida i est\u00e0 considerada com un exemple viu del tradicional cultiu de l\u2019olivera a Montenegro.<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Badia Valdanos<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

En la nostra road-trip no hi ha hagut temps per visitar aquestes \u00faltimes tres atraccions exposades. \u00danicament hem cregut convenient veure a fons el Casc Hist\u00f2ric d\u2019Ulcinj. Un cop visitat, de seguida ens posem en marxa fins a l\u2019antiga ciutat de Bar (Stari Bar<\/span>), a uns 5 kil\u00f2metres a l\u2019interior de la nova ciutat de Bar, la qual s\u2019equipara a un centre massificat de turisme de sol i platja.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Arribem a Stari Bar al cap de mitja hora d\u2019haver sortit d\u2019Ulcinj. Per tant, tampoc ens acostarem a Bar per veure platges, sin\u00f3 per a rec\u00f3rrer els hist\u00f2rics carrerons de Stari Bar, una antiga ciutat emmurallada i molt ben conservada. Al voltant del jaciment s\u2019amunteguen restaurants, botigues de records i alguna mesquita. Una barreja realment interessant.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Stari Bar<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Des de l\u2019aparcament fins a la ciutat, ens toca pujar per una empinad\u00edssima costa d\u2019aproximadament un kil\u00f2metre per arribar a les suggerents ru\u00efnes de l\u2019antiga ciutat de Stari Bar que s\u2019alcen a dalt d\u2019un cingle rodejat de retor\u00e7ades oliveres, moltes d\u2019elles mil\u00b7len\u00e0ries. Fou fundada fa uns 2.800 anys, i ha estat ocupada per Lliris, Grecs, Romans, Bizantins, Eslaus, Venecians i Otomans, afegint la seva part d\u2019hist\u00f2ria, arquitectura i costums.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Stari Bar<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La hist\u00f2ria de com es va arribar en aquesta situaci\u00f3 de ru\u00efnes i el posterior abandonament de la ciutat \u00e9s la seg\u00fcent: \u201cIbrahim Bey, cap otom\u00e0, es negava a entregar la ciutat malgrat del bombardeig d\u2019artilleria pesada montenegr\u00ed, que va durar m\u00e9s de set setmanes, destruint gran part de la ciutat, fins que en el 5 de gener de 1878, els montenegrins varen detonar un explosiu de 225kg en l\u2019aq\u00fceducte de la ciutat que va tallar el subministrament d\u2019aigua. Ibrahim Bey va rendir la ciutat el 9 de gener. La ciutat i terrenys lim\u00edtrofs foren atorgats al recent reconegut Principat de Montenegro en el Congr\u00e9s de Berl\u00edn (1878). La nova ciutat de Bar es va construir en la costa en les antigues instal\u00b7lacions portu\u00e0ries\u201d.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Stari Bar<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

L\u2019entrada per visitar un dels jaciments arqueol\u00f2gics m\u00e9s importants de l\u2019\u00e8poca medieval, no nom\u00e9s de Montenegro sin\u00f3 en els Balcans, costa uns 2\u20ac per persona. Un cop dins, farem una extensa passejada per l\u2019antic Bar creuant els seus carrers empedrats, pujant les empinades costes, contemplant el paisatge i visitant el seu Museu Arqueol\u00f2gic (incl\u00f2s en l\u2019entrada).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Stari Bar<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

El jaciment conta amb m\u00e9s de 600 edificis de diferents estils arquitect\u00f2nics, sobre tot g\u00f2tic, renaixentista i barroc que es barregen amb elements d\u2019influ\u00e8ncia oriental. De tots ells, els m\u00e9s destacats son la porta principal, l\u2019esgl\u00e9sia de Sant Nicolau, la de Sant Jordi, el Palau del Pr\u00edncep i del Bisbe, i la Torre del Rellotge.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Museu Arqueol\u00f2gic de Stari Bar<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Menci\u00f3 especial mereixen el Hammam turc del segle XVII, l\u2019esgl\u00e9sia de Santa Caterina i, sobretot, l\u2019aq\u00fceducte de Bar, constru\u00eft en el segle XVI, quan la regi\u00f3 estava sota domini de l\u2019Imperi Turc i que constitueix l\u2019obra civil m\u00e9s important de l\u2019arquitectura otomana de Bar.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Stari Bar \u2013 Esgl\u00e9sia de Santa Caterina<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"
Antic aq\u00fceducte de Stari Bar<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Tots els monuments es troben en ru\u00efnes, ja que aquesta part de Bar est\u00e0 deshabitada des de finals dels anys setanta, per\u00f2 en l\u2019actualitat, degut a l\u2019impuls tur\u00edstic i a la seva inclusi\u00f3 en la Llista Indicativa de la Unesco, hi viuen unes 12.000 persones en els voltants.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Stari Bar<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I despr\u00e9s de rec\u00f3rrer a tort i a dret la totalitat de l\u2019antiga ciutat, ha arribat l\u2019hora d\u2019anar a buscar el cotxe i anar-nos-en a l\u2019\u00faltim punt de la ruta d\u2019avui, i lloc on passarem la nit. Es tracta de Sveti Stefan. Agafarem la carretera M2.4 que voreja la costa montenegrina i ens ofereix unes grans visuals del mar i de la costa, fins que 35 kil\u00f2metres m\u00e9s a l\u2019oest de Bar, hi trobem una de les \u201cperles\u201d de l\u2019Adri\u00e0tic, la pen\u00ednsula de Sveti Stefan<\/span>. De cam\u00ed, per\u00f2, passarem per la ciutat costanera de Petrovac<\/span>, la qual no t\u00e9 un espectacular centre hist\u00f2ric com les altres, per\u00f2 la tranquil\u00b7litat i les aig\u00fces blau turquesa hi tenen el seu encant. Dep\u00e8n de com anem d\u2019horari podem decidir parar-nos una estona a estirar les cames…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Petrovac<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I ara s\u00ed que podem dir que per fi som a Sveti Stefan. Es tracta de la imatge que surt en tots els cat\u00e0legs de Montenegro…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Sveti Stefan<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Ho est\u00e0vem esperant des del dia que v\u00e0rem escollir Montenegro com el pr\u00f2xim dest\u00ed de vacances. Hav\u00edem vist cents de fotografies i no ens va defraudar. Arriba la hora de visitar Sveti Stefan. Es tracta d\u2019una petita porci\u00f3 de terra unida al continent per una fina l\u00ednia de sorra. En el seu interior alberga un poble medieval en miniatura, tant bonic que donen unes ganes irrefrenables d\u2019arribar fins all\u00ed i rec\u00f3rrer fins a l\u2019\u00faltim rac\u00f3.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Desgraciadament, avui no \u00e9s m\u00e9s que un complex hoteler de luxe i l\u2019entrada est\u00e0 reservada nom\u00e9s per els seus hostes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hi ha varis miradors en la carretera per a poder admirar Sveti Stefan des de les altures abans d\u2019arribar. Aix\u00ed doncs, abans d\u2019anar a buscar el nostre allotjament, ens acostarem a un dels millors miradors de Sveti Stefan des de les altures: el \u201cSveti Stefan Viewpoint<\/span>\u201d, ubicat en un trencall a m\u00e0 dreta de 1,6 kil\u00f2metres en pujada que porta al Monastery Rustovo. Abans d\u2019arribar al monestir hi ha el mirador:<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"
Sveti Stefan Viewpoint<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

I ara s\u00ed que anirem a buscar l\u2019allotjament. Tota la resta de miradors i platges amb vistes de Sveti Stefan ho deixarem per el dia de dem\u00e0, que ens el prendrem una mica de relax.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Hem escollit dos allotjaments de la plataforma \u201cbooking\u201d, els quals compleixen les prestacions que hem indicat en anteriors apartats en quan a disposici\u00f3 de cuina, aparcament privat, condicions de cancel\u00b7laci\u00f3 gratu\u00efta i dist\u00e0ncia menor a 1km des del centre de la ciutat:
1) Villa Nikola Kentera. <\/strong>Adre\u00e7a: Slobode 23. SVETI STEFAN. Preu: 74,00\u20ac\/nit (total de 148\u20ac)
2) Apartments An\u0111us<\/strong>. Adre\u00e7a: Sveti Stefan, Budva. SVETI STEFAN. Preu: 79,50\u20ac\/nit (total de 159\u20ac)<\/td><\/tr><\/tbody><\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Com veieu, els preus son bastant m\u00e9s cars que en la resta d\u2019allotjaments proposats en anteriors dies. I \u00e9s que estem en un lloc una mica exclusiu…<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Adjuntem el recorregut que hem realitzat en el dia, aix\u00ed com les atraccions visitades, en un mapa de google maps<\/span> (hem realitzat un total de 66,60km en un temps de 1h 38min):<\/p>\n\n\n\n[googlemaps https:\/\/www.google.com\/maps\/embed?pb=!1m44!1m12!1m3!1d2953.0150208642854!2d18.89446929249456!3d42.25685177634554!2m3!1f0!2f0!3f0!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!4m29!3e0!4m5!1s0x134e137ad7321337%3A0xd6ef6a2f6eb40acc!2zVWxjaW5qINCj0LvRhtC40Zo!3m2!1d41.9310884!2d19.2147632!4m5!1s0x134e747eb7bb9305%3A0x134fef0c38380d03!2sParking%20iza%20Starog%20Grada!3m2!1d42.0942456!2d19.1351196!4m5!1s0x134dd62e6162df99%3A0xdc35e93a8533ca13!2z0J_QtdGC0YDQvtCy0LDRhg!3m2!1d42.205331699999995!2d18.9457661!4m4!1s0x134dd56d4f162753%3A0x9aa3a5ff4abca43b!3m2!1d42.264317999999996!2d18.9001429!4m4!1s0x134dd5ccf1f01965%3A0xa81ea05fc99de02a!3m2!1d42.2563873!2d18.8943397!5e0!3m2!1sca!2ses!4v1650558555575!5m2!1sca!2ses&w=600&h=450]\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Avui \u00e9s el primer dia que passarem a la magn\u00edfica Costa Adri\u00e0tica de Montenegro. \u00c9s un dels seus reclams tur\u00edstics m\u00e9s importants. Pel mat\u00ed visitarem els racons de la ciutat vella d\u2019Ulcinj (Stari Grad). Seguirem amb la nostra road-trip en la direcci\u00f3 oest per la costa adri\u00e0tica fent uns 27 kil\u00f2metres per arribar a una […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"nf_dc_page":"","om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[236],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-8568","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-montenegro"],"yoast_head":"\n8. COSTA ADRI\u00c0TICA: ULCINJ + STARI BAR + SVETI STEFAN - Viatges en fam\u00edlia "slow travel"<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/slowtravelfamily.com\/?p=8568\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"ca_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"8. COSTA ADRI\u00c0TICA: ULCINJ + STARI BAR + SVETI STEFAN - Viatges en fam\u00edlia "slow travel"\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Avui \u00e9s el primer dia que passarem a la magn\u00edfica Costa Adri\u00e0tica de Montenegro. \u00c9s un dels seus reclams tur\u00edstics m\u00e9s importants. Pel mat\u00ed visitarem els racons de la ciutat vella d\u2019Ulcinj (Stari Grad). 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